CYCLADES

Naxos

Size: 45km x 30km
Martian Risk: Some near Naxos town

Naxos is the largest of the Cyclades, with pretty villages in its mountainous interior and wonderful sandy beaches. The capital has a busy harbour backed by the Labyrinth, a jumble of alleys rising steeply to the magically quiet citadel, visible from miles offshore. There is a good bus service (but see below) and caiques operate to the wonderful sandy beaches nearest town. Scheduled ferries and local excursion boats make it easy to visit Mykonos/Delos, Paros, Ios and even Santorini without having to stay away overnight.

However Naxos does have its challenges. We worry its heading down the development path exemplified by Mykonos and Santorini. So still HG territory but choose your spot.

 

Moutsouna on the remote east coast is the starting point for the newly asphalted road leading down to the south past a string of beautiful, almost untouched, sandy coves. The village harbour itself is fascinating – it combines industrial relics of the cable railway system bringing bauxite from the now disused mines in the hills above down to the loading jetty which is still in situ. Overlooking this rather exceptional historical site is a row of beach-front tavernas shaded by trees and blessed with a lovely view in a tranquil setting.

The west coast, which can get blowy in Meltemi season, is a series of wide sandy bays. Inevitably there is some development on many of these. The Agios Prokopios/Agia Anna/ Plaka beach area, well served by bus from town, offers a lot of small scale accommodation, many sandy beaches, some shops, tavernas and restaurants. But Agios Prokopios itself not HG - wall to wall sunbeds and traffic. Just round the point on the SW tip lies Psili Ammos, a vast expanse of sandy beach with a wonderful feeling of remoteness. There is good windsurfing on Plaka beach and at Mikri Vigla a little further south.

Activities

There is plenty to do on Naxos. There are hills to climb, monasteries to reach and a little archaeology; above all, there’s wonderful walking. Several guide books are available, the best probably being Graf Editions’ Naxos & the Small Cyclades which has good maps and whose text is sprinkled with grid references so bring your GPS. The beauty of the walks (apart from the intrinsic attraction of the views, vegetation, ancient remains etc) is that there are circular routes, enabling you to drive to a starting point and finish there at the end of the day; and others – even better perhaps - which involve one bus to the starting point and a different bus back from the end. This works particularly well for several walks starting from the fascinating old town of Apeiranthos, high up above the east coast, and culminating in the delightful village of Chalki where there is a highly recommended taverna for a late lunch.

Plus points

The wonderful green and fertile valleys of the interior and the majestic mountains enclosing them – all perfect for walking. Many pretty old villages – perhaps Apeiranthos and little Halki deserve special mention - feature on the walking routes, as do ruined castles and deserted monasteries. The island has some of the best sandy beaches in Greece. With the harbour-front now virtually traffic-free, Naxos town is a splendid setting for a drink or a meal. Good bus service.

Minus points

It’s a pity the handily placed airport has so few services linking the island with Athens (or anywhere else). Dress code in the town? Anything you like as long as it’s not a car - parking is a nightmare.

Naxos: the citadel from the harbour

Naxos: view from above Moutsouna to Donoussa Island

Naxos: the sweeping sands of Psili Ammos with the taverna (squared)

Naxos: the harbour-front and citadel

Naxos: superb walking territory (Photodotou Monastery)

Naxos: ideal terminus of many walks - the taverna at Chalki

Naxos: Aghios Georgios beach, Naxos Town

Naxos: inland scenery near Myloi

Moutsouna: Sunday lunch on the harbour

Naxos - Moutsouna: Eurostar terminal on the jetty

Naxos: Kleidou beach on E coast, south of Moutsouna

A harbourfront taverna at Moutsouna

Kleidou beach, south of Moutsouna

 

Naxos harbour

 

East coast, south of Moutsouna

 

 

Naxos town: entrance to the Citadel