CYCLADES

Koufonissia

Martian Risk: Nil

Koufonissia is really two islands – Ano and Kato Koufonissia. Ano (Upper) is where it all happens – the ferries call there, the accommodation is there (and growing quite fast) as is the little village street with its restaurants and shops set a little back from the waterfront. The island is popular with Italians and Scandinavians who are drawn by its wonderful beaches – well, who isn’t?

The town beach, flanked to the west by the jetty for the big ferries, to the north by the village and to the east by newer accommodation, is large and sandy and a focal point for village life, especially amongst the young. Leading east from the beach is the coastal path which gives access to one idyllic stretch of sand after another until you reach the impressive outcrop of low rocks, with a tunnel through one to the open sea. Being away from the Meltemi, these coves and beaches offer almost Caribbean style bathing and snorkelling - but there’s no shade, so bring your own tree. Along the east coast you come to the huge expanse of open sandy beach at Pori. Behind it the land slopes upwards, allowing you to start an easy walk diagonally across the island back to the village, with a wonderful view across to neighbouring Naxos and, for no extra charge, a close-up of the island’s landfill site.

And Kato Koufonissia? Reached during the season by a regular excursion caique which gives access to a very highly praised taverna (which seems to have been carved out of a prickly copse) and some wonderful long sandy beaches – surely amongst the best in the Cyclades. You can make a perfect day out by taking the caique to the first beach, walking a few yards up a path to the taverna and, an hour or two later, set out on an hour (or more’s) walk to the second beach, hopefully in time to catch the caique back to Ano Kouf. Alternatively, take the first caique to the further beach for your swimming, then catch it back a couple of hours later to the taverna – and it won’t matter if you are still eating late the same evening as the last caique back is about midnight!

Koufonissia: just one of the many sandy beaches

Koufonissia: view from Nikitas' Bar

Koufonissia: coastal path above the beaches

Koufonissia: the town beach and view to uninhabited Keros

Koufonissia: please use the trash [peli]can

Koufonissia: the village from town beach

Koufonissia: off to Kato-Kouf

Koufonissia: beach on Kato-Kouf

Koufonissia: the high street