DODECANESE

Rhodes

Size: 100km x 50km
Martian Risk: extreme, but only in well defined areas.

First impressions

Although one of Greece’s best-known islands, and under siege in some areas by Martians, Rhodes is so large that you can still enjoy touring round the mountainous centre, the beaches of the south and some splendid archaeological sites. In high season it’s hard to avoid the Martians in the Old Town and down the east coast as far as Lindos & Pefkos, but otherwise it’s a surprisingly rewarding island and virtually the whole west coast is untouched.

Getting there

There are charter flights (mostly Weds) from almost all UK regional airports. Alternatively there are scheduled Olympic Airlines services from Heathrow, Manchester and Gatwick via Athens; and three other scheduled services a week direct to Rhodes from Gatwick.

Activities

Wandering through the Old Town with its massive walls, mix of mediaeval buildings and strong Turkish influence reflecting the long period of Ottoman occupation is very rewarding. Sites outside the city include the monastery of Philerimos, the classical remains at Kamiros (wonderful drains – better than many in Greece today), the Valley of the Butterflies and the famous acropolis at Lindos. You can circumnavigate the whole island by car in a day, but there are nice places to stay in if you can spare, say, three nights. Ferries allow day trips to Symi, Tilos, Halki and Kastellorizon in Greece and to Marmaris in Turkey.

Plus points

The easy access from the UK, the wide choice of first class (and lower grade) hotels, the abundance of good sandy beaches, the attractions of the ancient sites and the excursion possibilities make it an ideal location for a short break – or one component of an island-hopping holiday in the south Dodecanese.

Minus points

Whilst the hilly interior and most of the west coast is beautifully remote, the island has the trappings of any modern Mediterranean hot spot and therefore genuine Greek life is harder to find here than on most other islands. But it’s worth putting up with a few Martians just to see the Old Town and sites.

Rhodes Town

Famous for its knight life, Crusader castle, the Palace of the Knights and the charming little harbour of Mandraki, the town is a good centre for seeing the whole island: use the excellent buses if you prefer not to hire a car.

Lindos

Visually, Lindos is the same idyllic village of white houses as it was in 1968, since planning is strict; but its character and clientele have changed. The shops are as picturesque as ever, but their wares are aimed at Martians and the bars and restaurants dispense music for morons until the small hours. So why is Hidden Greece featuring it? Simply because of a unique boutique hotel in a superb position overlooking the bay round the last corner of the village.

Rhodes: no shortage of tavernas in the Old Town

Rhodes: no shortage of Martians in the Old Town

Rhodes: Street of the Knights

Rhodes: just possible to find something to take home

Rhodes: near the top of the Old Town

Rhodes: approaching the harbour from the Old Town

Rhodes - Lindos: beach view from Melenos Hotel